The Internal Ranking: Why the 2007 is So Special in Tignanello’s History

There exists for Tignanello a quiet, unofficial hierarchy of vintages — a list maintained by critics and collectors alike that separates the great from the truly exceptional. At the very top stand the vintages that prove not merely excellent but epochal: 1985, 2001, 2007, 2009, 2010, 2016, 2018. The 2007 stands in this company not despite its history, but because of it.

A Hot Summer, a Cool August — The Recipe for Perfection

The weather record of 2007 on the Tenuta Tignanello reads like the script of a winemaker inventing their ideal vintage. The spring was early and mild — the flowering proceeded uniformly and completely. The first part of the summer was warm and dry, the grapes developing concentration and phenolic ripeness. Then, in August, the weather cooled — exactly when the Sangiovese needs it most. The day-night temperature differentials preserved aromatic freshness and natural acidity. September was perfect for a slow, selective harvest.

Antinori themselves wrote of the 2007: “The Sangiovese expressed its characteristic varietal aromatic notes and elegance, along with beautiful colour, all of which made it possible to foresee a truly great vintage.”

The Last Vintage of the Old Winery

There is a historical detail about the 2007 Tignanello that distinguishes it from every other vintage: it was the last produced before the comprehensive renovation of the Tignanello winery. A winery that since the first vintage of 1971 had been the cradle of a winemaking revolution — the place where Giacomo Tachis and Piero Antinori had broken the rules and invented the Super Tuscans.

Monica Larner, chief critic for Italy at Wine Advocate, found this context significant: the 2007 was not merely a great wine, but the end of a chapter. What came after — the new winery, the new facilities, the new vintages — was a continuation of the story, but a new page. The 2007 is the last line of the first great paragraph.

Today: A Wine in its Third Dimension

Burgundy lovers speak of the “Plénitudes” — the maturation phases of a great wine. Tignanello lovers need no such terminology, but the concept applies equally. After 18 years, the 2007 has reached its third dimension: the phase where primary fruit fuses with tertiary aromas of tobacco, leather, spice and earth — a complexity that can neither be bought nor accelerated. One can only wait.

And then drink. Now.

Beaucastel Blanc Roussanne Vieilles Vignes: The White Wine Nobody Expected

When the Perrin family decided in 1986 to produce a separate cuvée from their oldest Roussanne vines, the wine world’s reaction was lukewarm. Châteauneuf-du-Pape was a red wine appellation. White wine existed of course — but as a by-product, a curiosity, not as a prestige object. Beaucastel had other plans.

1909: The Vines That Founded a Legend

The story of the Roussanne Vieilles Vignes begins with a date worth remembering: 1909. The year Pierre Tramier acquired Château de Beaucastel and planted the first Roussanne vines on the north-western parcel. Vines that are today over 115 years old. Vines that have survived two world wars, the phylloxera crisis, climate change and five generations of the Perrin family.

These vines do not give much. Yields are minimal — 20 to 25 hectolitres per hectare, a fraction of the permitted maximum. But what they give is of a concentration and depth rarely found elsewhere in the world.

Roussanne: The Most Complex White Grape of the Rhône

Roussanne is not easy. She is sensitive, disease-prone, capricious — a grape that demands much and sometimes gives little. Many producers in Châteauneuf-du-Pape have for this reason reduced or abandoned it entirely. Beaucastel did the opposite: they built their entire prestige white wine upon it.

Why? Because Roussanne, when old and growing on the right terroir, can do something no other white wine from the South of France can do: it ages like a great Burgundy. It develops complexity, depth and nuance over decades. It does not become heavier or flatter — it becomes finer, more precise, more profound.

The galets roulés terroir of Beaucastel gives the Roussanne a mineral tension found only in Hermitage or the Châteauneuf whites of Rayas. The combination of century-old vines, organic farming and ageing in demi-muids with 50% new oak creates a wine that cannot decide whether it wants to be richness or elegance — and ends up being both.

500 Cases. No More.

The production of the Roussanne Vieilles Vignes is limited to around 500 cases per year. Not by marketing calculation, but because the parcel simply gives no more. On the secondary market, mature vintages change hands for 500 CHF and upwards. Buyers on the waiting list wait years.

Jeb Dunnuck called the wine “the Montrachet of the southern Rhône” — a claim that initially surprised the wine world and was then increasingly accepted as accurate. Because what Beaucastel achieves here is without parallel in the South: a Grand Cru-quality white wine from a region known, until a few decades ago, for red wine and nothing else.

2009: The Vintage That Confirms Everything

The 2009 vintage was in the southern Rhône exceptionally warm and opulent — one of the most celebrated of recent decades. For the Roussanne Vieilles Vignes, it was ideal: the natural sweetness of the grape found in 2009 the perfect ripeness, the creamy texture its maximum expression, the minerality of the terroir its deepest voice.

Today, after 15 years, this wine drinks brilliantly. Not because it has reached and passed its peak — but because it has arrived exactly where it was always meant to be. The wine needed time. As everything great does.

Nicolas Joly et la Coulée de Serrant : L’Homme qui a Rendu son Âme au Vin

Il y a des vignerons qui font du vin. Il y a des vignerons qui réfléchissent au vin. Et puis il y a Nicolas Joly — un homme qui a tout abandonné de ce qu’il connaissait, est retourné sur une colline dominant la Loire et a décidé de réinventer le vin de fond en comble. Non pas comme technique. Comme philosophie. Comme vision du monde.

L’histoire commence loin de la France.

Le Banquier Devenu Paysan

Nicolas Joly n’était pas vigneron. Il était banquier d’affaires chez Morgan Stanley à New York et à Londres. Bien payé, bien habillé, bien installé. Et puis, en 1977, son père mourut. Joly rentra chez lui — au domaine familial du Château de la Roche aux Moines à Savennières, une petite appellation sur la rive gauche de la Loire que la plupart des Français ne pouvaient pas trouver sur une carte.

Il ne savait rien sur le vin. Il ne savait rien sur la viticulture. Ce qu’il savait — avec la précision d’un analyste financier — c’est que les sols étaient malades. Pesticides. Herbicides. Engrais chimiques. Les sols sentaient le laboratoire, pas la terre.

Rudolf Steiner et la Découverte de la Biodynamie

Ce que Joly fit ensuite semble fou à beaucoup. Il lut Rudolf Steiner — le philosophe et mystique autrichien qui donna en 1924 une série de conférences sur les “fondements spirituels pour le renouvellement de l’agriculture.” Steiner décrivait la ferme comme un organisme vivant, la terre comme un être vivant, les planètes comme des forces invisibles influençant la croissance des plantes. Calendrier lunaire. Bouse de corne. Préparations cosmiques.

Joly écouta. Et puis il agit.

En 1980, il convertit l’intégralité du domaine à l’agriculture biodynamique — parmi les tout premiers vignerons de France à le faire. Aucune chimie. Aucun pesticide synthétique. Travail selon le calendrier lunaire. Enfouissement de bouse de corne en automne, déterrage au printemps. Préparations d’herbes pulvérisées sur les vignes. Les sols recommencèrent à vivre.

Le Monopole : Un Vignoble comme une Cathédrale

La Coulée de Serrant n’est pas un vignoble ordinaire. Elle est cultivée sans interruption depuis 1130 — presque 900 ans. Les moines cisterciens qui la créèrent ne choisirent pas ce coteau par hasard : des pentes escarpées orientées au sud, d’ardoise et de roches volcaniques, dominant un affluent de la Loire, avec une combinaison unique de chaleur, de fraîcheur et de profondeur minérale. Seulement 7 hectares. Au maximum 20 à 25 hectolitres par hectare — une fraction du maximum autorisé de 40. Partiellement travaillée avec un cheval, car la pente est trop raide pour les tracteurs.

La Coulée de Serrant est l’un des rares vignobles de France à posséder sa propre AOC en Monopole — aux côtés de la Romanée-Conti, de La Tâche et de Château Grillet. Cet honneur n’est pas un hasard. C’est la reconnaissance de près d’un millénaire d’histoire viticole sur un terroir singulier.

Le Caractère Polarisant : Pourquoi les Vins de Joly Font Débat

Aucun vigneron en France ne polarise autant que Nicolas Joly. D’un côté : Andrew Jefford, qui le salue comme le créateur de l’un des plus grands vins blancs secs de France. De l’autre : des critiques qui qualifient les vins d’oxydatifs, d’instables et techniquement incohérents. La vérité — et c’est la réponse honnête — se situe quelque part entre les deux, et dépend beaucoup de la bouteille.

Les vins de Joly sont mis en bouteille avec un minimum de soufre. C’est un choix philosophique : le soufre tue l'”énergie” du vin, croit-il. Le résultat est un vin qui vit — et qui parfois vit de manière incontrôlée. Les bonnes bouteilles sont saisissantes. Les moins bonnes peuvent être submergées par l’oxydation. Ce n’est pas une erreur du vigneron. C’est une conséquence de ses convictions.

Le 2007 est une année où cette conviction fonctionne : la richesse du millésime, son fruit opulent et sa substance naturelle donnent au vin assez de corps pour tenir — malgré le soufre minimal, malgré la maturité, malgré les 15,5%. Un vin qu’on n’oublie pas. Et sur lequel on débattra encore dans des décennies.

C’est peut-être la plus grande chose qu’on puisse dire d’un vin.

Domaine Coche-Dury: The Estate That Needs No Explanation — and Deserves One Anyway

There are estates in Burgundy that are great because their terroirs are great. And then there is Domaine Coche-Dury — an estate that makes its terroirs great.

Jasper Morris, one of the world’s foremost Burgundy experts, put it perfectly: “You might expect to be able to put a finger on why the wines are so good. Are the yields low? Not exceptionally. Is there some wizardry during the vinification or élevage? Sometimes I think it is just that Jean-François Coche-Dury has green fingers.”

The Marriage That Created a Legend

The story of Coche-Dury begins in 1973 — with a marriage. Jean-François Coche, son of an old winemaking family from Meursault, marries Odile Dury. The Dury family brings vineyards. The Coche family brings generations of winemaking knowledge. Together, they create an estate that on paper appears modest — 9 hectares spread across six communes — and in the bottle is incomprehensibly great.

Robert Parker discovered the estate in the late 1980s and was immediately staggered. His evaluations of the Meursault Perrières and the Corton-Charlemagne set new standards. Within a few years, Coche-Dury was known worldwide — and the bottles were rarer than ever.

Jean-François: The Winemaker with Green Fingers

Jean-François Coche-Dury is not a theorist. He is a farmer — in the best sense of the word. He spent decades understanding every metre of his vineyards: which soil gives what to which vine, how each selection responds, how much sun each slope receives. No clones planted — a rarity in Burgundy, where most producers long ago switched to selected clones. Massal selections that preserve the genetic diversity of the old vines.

In the cellar: long fermentation in oak barrels with spontaneous yeasts, frequent battonage, 15 to 22 months of ageing, no filtration. The proportion of new oak varies — up to 50% for the great whites in certain years — but always deployed so that the wood serves rather than dominates.

Raphaël: The Second Generation Without Fear

In 2010, Jean-François handed the estate to his son Raphaël — a winemaker who grew up in his father’s vineyards and knows the most difficult task in the wine world: taking on a perfect legacy.

Raphaël has not tried to copy his father or surpass him. He has continued the estate with the same principles — respect for the terroir, patience in the cellar, precision in every decision — but with his own, modern sensibility. Connoisseurs are unanimous: Raphaël has maintained the level. Some say he has even slightly raised it.

Auxey-Duresses: The Silent Jewel of the Portfolio

In a portfolio that includes Corton-Charlemagne, Meursault Perrières and Volnay Premier Cru, one might consider the Auxey-Duresses Rouge a supporting player. That would be a mistake.

Auxey-Duresses lies in the valley west of Meursault, on steep limestone hillsides with a northerly aspect that gives Pinot Noir a natural coolness and freshness. The soils are clay-limestone, complex and deep — ideal for a Pinot Noir that prizes elegance over power. In Coche-Dury’s hands, this “simple” village wine becomes a lesson in Burgundian precision.

The Auxey-Duresses Rouge is the wine you buy when you want to drink Coche-Dury without depending on the secondary market. It is the wine that sommeliers worldwide recommend when someone asks: “What is the Coche-Dury signature?” The answer is in this bottle. Complete, clear and undeniable.

Château de Fonsalette: The Secret on the Other Side of the Boundary

Boundaries in wine are strange things. One metre of difference in location can be the difference between a simple table wine and a legendary Grand Cru — not because of the soil, not because of the grape, but because of a line that humans drew on a map.

Château de Fonsalette lives on the wrong side of that line. And makes of it one of the greatest estates in France.

1945: The Purchase That Started Everything

Louis Reynaud, grandfather of the current guardian Emmanuel Reynaud, acquired Fonsalette in 1945 — shortly after the end of the Second World War, in a France slowly rebuilding itself. The estate lies near Lagarde-Paréol, in the Côtes du Rhône area, directly at the northern edge of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation. 120 hectares in total: forests, olive groves, agricultural land — and just 12 hectares of vines. This modesty of surface is not a weakness. It is intention.

The soils are complex: sand, clay, limestone — similar but not identical to the famous gravel soils of Rayas. Old-vine Grenache, Cinsault and Syrah for the reds; Grenache Blanc, Clairette and Marsanne for the whites. All harvested by hand. All vinified with the same methods as Rayas. All aged in the same cellar.

One Cellar. Three Legends.

This is the key to understanding Fonsalette: the wine is not vinified at Fonsalette itself. It travels to Emmanuel Reynaud — to Château Rayas. There, in the same mythical cellar, under the same direction, with the same old foudres and the same philosophy, the Fonsalette Rouge is born alongside the Rayas, alongside the Pignan. No temperature control. No filtration. Spontaneous fermentation. Long ageing.

What distinguishes Fonsalette from Rayas is not the method. It is the terroir — the other side of the boundary. And that makes it one of the most fascinating wines in France: a wine one does not drink because it is cheaper than Rayas. One drinks it because it is different. More deeply rooted in Cinsault and its floral lightness. Broader in its Grenache base. More accessible, but no less complex.

Cinsault: The Forgotten Pearl

In a world that worships Grenache and Syrah, Cinsault is the forgotten grape. Too light, some say. Too little colour, too little extraction. And yet: in Fonsalette, the Cinsault — up to 35% of the blend — gives the wine something Grenache alone cannot provide. Flowers. Rose. Violet. An airy lightness that keeps the wine from ever feeling heavy despite its depth. It is this lightness that distinguishes Fonsalette from every other southern Rhône wine — that Burgundian bearing that runs through every vintage.

The Price of Integrity

Fonsalette is one of the most sought-after Côtes du Rhône in the world — and one of the most expensive. Bottles from the great vintages change hands for more than 500 CHF on the secondary market. Not because there was a plan to create a luxury Côtes du Rhône. But because Emmanuel Reynaud simply does the only thing he knows: wine of absolute integrity, regardless of what is written on the label.

That is the paradox of Fonsalette. The label says Côtes du Rhône. The wine says: I am what I am. And that is enough.

Château des Tours: The Silent Genius of Sarrians

In the world of wine, there are loud geniuses and silent geniuses. Emmanuel Reynaud belongs to the second category — and it is perhaps precisely for that reason that he is one of the most influential winemakers of his generation.

The story begins with his uncle. Jacques Reynaud was a legend in his own lifetime — a recluse who lived in the crumbling Château Rayas in the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, shunned the press, refused visitors and produced wines that left Parker in awe. Pure Grenache. Little colour. Explosive intensity. A style so singular it acquired a name: the Rayas style.

When Jacques Reynaud died in 1997, he left behind an inheritance almost impossible to bear. His nephew Emmanuel Reynaud, barely thirty, stepped up — with no experience of the spotlight, but with an instinct for wine that quickly proved itself to be generational talent.

Château des Tours: The Modest Brother of Rayas

Château des Tours is located in Sarrians, north of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, in the heart of the Vacqueyras and Côtes du Rhône appellations. The estate belonged to Emmanuel Reynaud’s father — it was the humble family property, while Rayas was the legend. Today, Château des Tours is no longer a secret among connoisseurs — but it has preserved its character: minimal, laconic, uncompromising.

The Vacqueyras is the estate’s flagship. 40 hectares of vines, old Grenache — some decades old — farmed organically without certification, because Reynaud rejects publicity for his methods as much as publicity for himself. The grapes are harvested as late as possible. Ripeness is not an option — it is an obsession.

The Philosophy: Grenache as Pinot Noir

What Emmanuel Reynaud does is radical in the southern Rhône: he treats his Grenache the way a Burgundian treats Pinot Noir. Little colour, enormous intensity. Light extraction, immense depth. Little or no oak. The substance comes from the grape, from the soil, from time.

The result: wines that regularly confuse specialists in blind tastings. Too little colour for Grenache. Too much finesse for the southern Rhône. Too much complexity for a Vacqueyras. And yet: this is Grenache. This is Vacqueyras. Simply in the hands of someone who truly understands what this grape can do.

A Wine That Falls Silent — Then Explodes

Reynaud’s wines are often closed in their youth. They demand air, time, patience. But those who wait, who decant, who understand — will be rewarded with an experience that has few parallels in the southern Rhône.

The 2012 Vacqueyras is today where it should be: fully open, complex, deep, with a finish that persists for minutes after the last sip. A wine you drink and immediately want to buy again. And then you realise there is almost none left.

Château de Beaucastel: Where the History of Wine Really Begins

Some estates have history. And then there is Château de Beaucastel — a place where history is literally beneath your feet, buried in the famous galets roulés of the Châteauneuf-du-Pape appellation, deposited there by the Rhône river across millennia.

The year is 1549. Europe is in the midst of the Renaissance. Michelangelo is still alive. And the Perrin family lays the first stone of what will become one of the world’s greatest wine estates. Five centuries later, four generations deep, brothers Marc, Thomas, Pierre and Mathieu Perrin are doing exactly what their ancestors always did: listening to the land.

The Terroir: A Geology Lesson in One Sip

To understand Beaucastel, you must first understand its soil. The famous galets roulés — those fist-sized, river-polished stones — blanket the surface like a natural battery. During the day, they absorb the heat of the Provençal sun. At night, they release it slowly back to the vines, like a stone hot water bottle. The result? A ripeness that comes from within, not forced by the sun.

Beneath: sand, clay, limestone. Deep enough that the roots of the old vines — some over 80 years old — must dig into the earth’s interior to find water and minerals. That struggle is not a weakness. It is the soul of the wine.

The Philosophy: 13 Grape Varieties, One Vision

In a world where winemakers increasingly specialise in one or two grape varieties, Beaucastel does the opposite. All 13 varieties permitted by the appellation are cultivated here — organically farmed since the 1960s, long before organic became a trend. Grenache and Mourvèdre form the backbone, but it is the quiet supporting cast — Counoise, Vaccarèse, Muscardin — that give the wine its inimitable complexity.

Marc Perrin puts it this way: a single-variety wine is a monologue. Beaucastel is a chorus.

Mourvèdre: The Secret Weapon

While most Châteauneuf-du-Pape producers treat Grenache as their undisputed king, Beaucastel has always given Mourvèdre an extraordinary role — up to 30% of the blend. This decision is radical and polarising. Mourvèdre is demanding: it ripens late, needs heat, gives little away. But when it works, it delivers something no other grape can: that dark, meaty, almost animal depth that sets a Beaucastel apart from everything else. Truffle. Leather. Earth after rain. That is Mourvèdre. That is Beaucastel.

A Wine That Waits — and Rewards

Beaucastel is not a wine for the impatient. In its youth it can seem closed, almost sullen. But those who wait — truly wait — will be rewarded with something that has become rare in modern winemaking: genuine maturity. Genuine complexity. A wine that does not merely taste, but tells a story.

The 2007 is the perfect illustration. After nearly two decades, it has reached exactly the point Robert Parker predicted: complete harmony, explosive on the nose, silky on the palate, with a finish that refuses to end.

Some wines are drunk. Beaucastel is experienced.

Tenuta dell’Ornellaia: The Super Tuscan Dream

In the early 1980s, the coastal region of Bolgheri in Tuscany was largely a swampy, forgotten landscape, famous only for peaches and strawberries. But Marchese Lodovico Antinori saw something else. Inspired by the success of his cousin’s Tenuta San Guido (Sassicaia) and his own travels to California and Bordeaux, he founded Tenuta dell’Ornellaia in 1981. His vision was bold: to plant classic Bordeaux grape varieties—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Cabernet Franc, and Petit Verdot—on the Tuscan coast and create wines that could rival the absolute best in the world.

A Unique Coastal Terroir The magic of Ornellaia lies in its unique geography. Situated close to the Mediterranean Sea, the vineyards benefit from constant cooling sea breezes that moderate the intense summer heat. The soils are a complex, ancient mosaic of marine, alluvial, and volcanic elements. This diversity allows each grape variety to be planted exactly where it will thrive. The result is a perfect balance between the ripe, opulent fruit character of the Tuscan sun and the structured, elegant backbone of the Bordeaux varieties.

The Pursuit of Excellence From the very beginning, Ornellaia operated on a philosophy of uncompromising quality. This means severe pruning, manicured vineyards, and harvesting block by block only when the grapes reach perfect phenolic maturity. Today, the estate is owned by the Frescobaldi family, another legendary Tuscan wine dynasty, who have fiercely protected Lodovico’s original vision. Ornellaia is not just a winery; it is a testament to human intuition and the absolute pinnacle of the Super Tuscan movement.